The Jet-Setting Finale: Amsterdam & Brussels

Last weekend, SK and I went on our last weekend adventure outside of Spain in order to visit friends who live in Amsterdam (The Netherlands) and Brussels (Belgium). It was a mighty good weekend, and I was pleasantly surprised by both cities. I’ve got the highlight reel ready to illuminate my favorite memories from my last European weekend trip.

Amsterdam in the Spotlight

• Sarah and I stayed with her college friends, Joelle and Eric, who have been living in Amsterdam for a year already. Joelle met us at the airport with a smile and some hugs, and she took us to their chic and modern third-floor apartment loft. They were great hosts, and they showed us the city in two gloriously beautiful days.

• Amsterdam is beautiful. Some have called it “The Venice of the North,” because the city center is surrounded by canals that fan out in concentric circles. I’ll admit that I’m not a big fan of Venice, and I can hands down say that visiting Amsterdam was much more enjoyable for me. Last weekend, I fell in love with Dutch Renaissance architecture, characterized by the narrow brick town-houses topped with a decorative “trapgevel” or Dutch gable. As Eric’s friend and co-worker Andrew said, "Amsterdam is just a glorified town,” where the neighborhood shops, bars, and restaurants are about as quaint and as homey as can be, and where a strange feeling of collectivism exists among the large international community.

• It seems like there are more bicycles than people in Amsterdam, which isn’t too far from the truth (there are an estimated 470,000 bikes, which is more than half the population). They were everywhere—packed close around on bike racks, tied up to metal gates and fences, filling plazas and lining building walls. Bikes serve as the most popular form of transportation in the city, and you’ve got to have your wits about you while walking or riding around. Otherwise, you might get flattened by someone whizzing by if you stop to admire the architecture for too long. If you decide to ride a bike yourself, staying confident and alert are the keys to an injury-averted voyage.
• SK & I hopped on bikes and went on a thrilling adventure as we navigated through the city streets, followed curving canals, rose over arched bridges, and dodged people and vehicles. On Friday, Joelle led us around the center, which was a difficult for beginners; Sarah wore a worried look on her face through most of that trip. On Saturday, Eric took us outside of the city to a large park where the 1928 Olympic Crew events were held. Sarah was able to relax more on that ride. Personally, I enjoyed the thrill of weaving in and out of traffic and pedestrians, but the lush, green scenery in the park was a nice change.

• I was so charmed by Amsterdam, by its beauty, by its quirkiness, by its people (Dutch people are beautiful and practically speak fluent English), and by its secrets. Sadly, what is not a secret about Amsterdam and what has made it infamous is that one sector of town that almost everyone has some idea or another about: The Red Light District. And seeing as how it might be awhile before we return to Amsterdam, Sarah & I were curious just enough to merit a visit to the RLD. And so, we followed (on foot) Eric, Joelle, and Andrew to that part of town… and soon enough, I saw the neon lights that signaled legal prostitution. Then, I received a jolting shock when I actually saw them: the scantily-clad women standing behind 4-foot windows, attempting to seduce passersby to “make a purchase.” I was surprised (and frankly appalled) by the numerous images, toys, and trinkets displayed in the dozens of sex-shops that I could not avoid seeing, and I was disgusted by the thought of people going to “Sex Shows.” I was so distressed by the entire scene that I was on the verge of tears and hyperventilating.
• Amsterdam is also famous for the vast amount of marijuana that is sold and used here. Cannabis plants and seeds are abundant, and the sickly sweet smell of pot wafts out of “coffee shops,” which sell the psychedelic herb in multiple forms. Holding true to a previously-made promise, SK & I paid 5 Euro for a Space Cake. We split the vanilla muffin with a distinctly herbal flavor… and thankfully I didn’t feel a thing afterward. So, yes, Mom and Dad, I’ve now tried pot (well, in one sense, at least).
• A Note on the RLD: I understand that some cases can be made for legalizing prostitution and marijuana. Since my blog is not a forum for discussing controversial issues, I wish to neither condemn nor defend either. I merely recount my experience in the RLD, and although my actions and reactions may indicate one stance or another, I ask that the reader does not hold that against me.

• There is a whole lot more to Amsterdam’s cuisine than Space Cakes. Since it’s such an international city and since The Netherlands has been influenced by their world exploration over the centuries, restaurant menus have a hodgepodge selection… and I loved it! From veggie-filled sandwiches to Vietnamese eggrolls, I delighted in it all. We did try some traditional Dutch treats, such as the stroopwafel (hot, gooey caramel sandwiched between 2 thin waffle-biscuits).
• We also enjoyed great beer in Amsterdam. On Friday afternoon, we went to a local brewery called Brouwerij Het Ij, one the oldest breweries in the city and uniquely located under a windmill. They brew seven beers regularly, and I liked the Ij Wit (“7% a delicately hopped wheat beer that is dangerously drinkable”) the best. We took a tour of the micro-brewery and then sat outside in the warm sunshine for a couple of hours.

• The Rijksmuseum houses the best collection of Dutch art in the world. Since it’s currently under renovation and less than half of the museum is open to visitors, only the best and most important pieces are on display, which actually made for a really nice & concise tour. My favorites were all the Rembrandt pieces (including The Nightwatch), Vermeer’s works, and the giant model of a 16^th-century Dutch ship. While walking through the museum, it dawned upon me that I was witnessing the modern version of a nation that helped shape the fate of Europe and the world.

• What else can I say? Amsterdam rocks!

The Beef on Brussels

• Sarah and I took an early morning train to Brussels, and we met my friend Julie at the train station. Julie is an American who worked at my school in Madrid last year, and she married Paco, a madrileño himself, last summer. During the course of their engagement, Paco got a job promotion to work in Brussels, and the couple moved after their July wedding. Julie and Paco live in a nice flat in central Brussels, and Julie’s Chihuahua, Lucky, greeted us with loads of barking and pant-leg-biting when we arrived. (I consider him lucky for the fact that I didn’t punt his oversized frame out the window! He was seriously the most annoying dog I have ever met.) We only had one night with J&P in Brussels, but they were great hosts, too. Paco was a superb tour guide and the four of us walked the entire city from noon to eight on Sunday, despite a few rain showers throughout the day.

• Brussels is a mish-mash of old European charm and an eclectic, funky style. Parts of the city reveal its former elegance, seen best from standing in the middle of the Grand Place, one of the most beautiful and impressive squares that I’ve ever seen. On the other hand, there is a grittiness to the city that seems a bit harsh, and sometimes a bit warn down, when observing only the exterior. Yet, once you delve a little deeper into the fray, you find all sorts of delights that are tucked away here and there. As a result, I found Brussels quite interesting.

• Belgium is famous for a few things that I liked a lot.
• Belgian beer—Did you know that beer can be delicious? I was reminded of that and have become a fan of the Belgians Leffe and Kriek.

• Belgian chocolate—Only the best for the refined palette. We indulged our taste buds with an edible piece of art and treated our hosts to another.

• Belgian waffles—When loaded with strawberries, whipped cream, chocolate sauce and powdered sugar, they’re almost too rich to finish. Almost.

• Frites—The Belgians love their French fries, and I enjoyed snacking on some frites with curry ketchup while listening to an outdoor concert next to the Royal Palace.

• Brussels has got a number of reasons for being famous and a few other things that I just found interesting.
• The capital of the EU and NATO Headquarters—As we walked through the European Community, through the tall, modern business-like buildings, I couldn’t help but think, “What happened to the Euro?! I really hope you guys can change the EU economy pronto… I’d really appreciate that in a few weeks!”

• The Manneken Pis—The famous peeing-boy statue has become an icon of the city over the years. He’s dressed in a different outfit everyday and has some 400 different ones to wear. I don’t really know more than that.

• Tin Tin—Brussels is the home of comics and Tin Tin can be found chasing bad guys all over the city. We didn’t make it to the Comics Museum, but I’m sure it would have been enlightening.

• We strolled through some parks, including the Cinquantenaire Park, where a family-friendly festival of some sort was going on Sunday afternoon.

• Because it sits in between the linguistically different regions of Belgium, there is a mix of Dutch and French spoken throughout Brussels. My ears really enjoyed listening to French music playing in the restaurants, and I loved getting a chance to practice my “merci” and “s’il vous plait.”

• Sarah and I had a couple of hours Monday morning to revisit central Brussels before we met Paco, who escorted us to the right bus we needed to take to get to the Charleroi Airport. In the end, it was a harrowing day of travel that took much longer than expected due to a busy airport and numerous delays. I couldn’t help but think, “Wow, this is my last Easyjet/Ryanair trip for who knows how long.” And we when finally arrived in Madrid Barajas, I thought, “Whoa, the next time I’m in this airport (that I know oh-so-well) I’m going to have a little more luggage with me… and it’ll be the last time I walk these hallways for a long while.”

And so, with the clock ticking loudly somewhere just behind me, I find myself once again in Madrid, struck with the realization that I have hardly two weeks left here. Tick-tock. Tick-tock. Venga… let’s make the most of it!