Tuesday, August 26, 2014

A New Home

As this blog attests, I left Spain and my teaching job in Madrid in the summer of 2010. Two months later, I married my best friend and moved to Orlando, Florida. After a long hiatus, I returned to the world of writing and created Global Heartbeat in 2014.


Eventually, we found a new home in Zurich, Switzerland where my travel blog really took off. In 2018, I relaunched my website as Global Heartbeat Travel. I continue to write about current and past travel experiences, and now I offer travel planning services. 

Please visit me at www.globalheartbeattravel.com and share it with a friend!

Friday, July 2, 2010

The Last Hoorah: Hasta Luego, Madrid

I am back in the United States of America, sitting at the coffee table of my Florida beach house. The winds from Hurricane Alex blow through the palm trees and the clouds are moving quickly. Their soft white and grey forms billow up into the sky, taking on fuzzy shapes whose interpretation of form is left to the imagination. My imagination can’t help but take me back to Madrid, to the regal Gran Vía and to the charming Plaza Mayor. I’ve been home for three days, but half of me is still in Spain.

My last days in Madrid were nothing short of spectacular. I did quite a number of new things—with Sarah by my side on almost all occasions—and we also made sure to revisit our old hang outs. Here are the highlights from the last hoorah in Spain:

The Opera at the Royal Theater: On Thursday, June 17th, SK and I got last call tickets at a 90% discount for some stellar seats in one of Madrid’s grandest theaters. Our box seats were literally next to the Royal Box, so I don’t think we could have asked for a better deal. We saw a German opera, The City of Death, which may not have been the happiest plotline in the world (it’s about a man obsessed with his dead wife), but it was a great experience and something both of us have wanted to do since arriving in Madrid. The orchestra played beautifully, and naturally, we were inspired by the actors to work out our vocal chords.

A Saturday in Segovia: SK, Patrick and I took the AVE train to Segovia on the 19th of June. There, we marveled at the ancient Roman aqueduct, explored the Alcazar Palace, and strolled through the charming streets of this quintessential Spanish town. Also, we had cochinillo (suckling pig) for lunch and then I took them to El Oso Blanco to drink the best sangria in all of Spain. Segovia was the very first place outside of Madrid that I visited, and I think it was quite fitting that it should be one of the last places, too.

A Saturday in Ávila: On the 26th on June, SK, Patrick, and I met at the Menendez Álvaro bus station at “Stupid O’Clock” (as Hitler, I mean, Patrick called 9:00 AM) in order to spend a few hours in Ávila. Ávila is the home of the famous Saint Teresa (of Ávila, duh), and the city center still maintains its medieval atmosphere. In fact, it is surrounded by an impressive wall with 88 towers standing tall and firm to protect the city. For me, visiting Ávila was something of a spiritual experience, because I deeply admired St. Teresa for her passion and commitment to God. We toured through a museum in her honor and we even got a glimpse at her ring-finger, finger, ring and all!
Later on, we found out that certain bars-restaurants were competing in a tapas competition, and it became our mission to eat as many different ones as we could. In less than 2.5 hours, we stopped at 7 different places, guzzled down our claras, and snacked on the free tapas that accompanied our drinks. We rated them according to presentation, flavor/taste, and price-value. (The winner was a fried-wantony-thing-of-goodness. The loser was the pig-ear goop we got served without knowing what it was beforehand.) By the end, we were literally running through the streets to get to just one more bar before we had to catch our bus and beat the rain showers rolling in. It was a magical day, full of the famous mystic’s presence and fanciful tapas. I really liked Ávila!
I might have been living in Madrid for (almost) two years, but it took me that long to discover some of the cities best kept “secrets.”

o I finally took a turn through the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, an often-overlooked museum and former royal art school that houses pieces from some of Spain’s best artists.

o SK and I trekked across town to see the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, a small chapel built in 1789 that has stunning frescos painted by none other than Goya.

o SK & I circled the Royal Palace until we found the singular entrance to the Campo de Moro, a beautiful park that lies just below the palace hill. There we were enchanted by the peacocks fluffing their feathers and by the gorgeous vegetation surrounding the quiet footpaths. Before reaching the lovely park, we spotted the Muralla Árabe, the remains of the ancient Moorish wall and the namesake of the park.

o I played volleyball one last time with some girls one Thursday night. Afterwards, Ana and I went out for dinner and said our goodbyes. She was the teammate who most pursued a friendship with me from the beginning, and I really appreciate her desire to get to know me on and off the volleyball courts.

o One of Patrick’s hobbies is to go “pool hopping.” He scrutinized the Google satellite map of Madrid for rooftop pools, came up with a list of hotels, and then met SK & I on Sunday the 27th to try to “sneak in” one. After two unsuccessful ventures, we decided to walk into a random 4-Star Hotel on Gran Vía, where we nonchalantly took the elevator to the top floor, and, low and behold… we found two jacuzzis! From the roof, we could see almost all of Madrid—from the Royal Palace to the Casa de Campo and even the sky scrapers situated in the north of the city. The red-shingled roofs reflected the warm sunshine, and we were ecstatic by our find. In fact, SK & I spent a couple of hours there the following day (our last day), accompanied by a bottle of cava and strawberries, and it was the absolute most perfect send off either one of us could ever have wished for.

• My last two Sundays were also refreshing and delightful. I went to the Community Church of Madrid and on the 20th I went to the University Pool in Moncloa to relax and catch some sun rays. On the 27th, I brought flowers in honor of “all the beautiful people of CCM who have ever walked through the doors,” and I stood up to give thanks for that amazing community of people. After my last service, the normal “Coffee Crew” decided to do something a little more special, and we went to VIPS for lunch; they paid for both mine and Sarah’s meal as their parting gift. I can’t express how grateful I am to have found the Community Church of Madrid. It was a haven of support and a greenhouse of love and life-lessons, and it had a lasting effect on my experience in Madrid and on my life.

My last day in Madrid—Monday, June 28—was quite special. I first met Pastora Cathy and treated her to her very first clara (that’s Fanta lemonade with a little beer), and we chatted for a good while about CCM, families, upcoming weddings (her son Ben gets married one week before Justin and me), and many other things. She gave us a wedding gift, silver serving spoons with smiley face cut-outs, which will forever remind me of her big smile and warm heart. Later on that afternoon, SK & I were treated to a few drinks by the primary server at one of our favorite bars, El Rincón de Jaen, which is just down the street from my apartment. We took a picture with Salvador and thanked him for the many extra plates of tapas and glasses of wine he brought us over the course of all our visits. Next, we went back to the roof-top pool, as I’ve already discussed.

o SK & I had a proper last night out in Madrid. First, we met up with some familiar faces: Pilar, Victor, Concha, and teachers who were at my school last year. We went to El Tigre, a personal favorite where they give you loads of food when you order a drink. It’s greasy goodness galore. SK & I enjoyed chatting in Spanish for a bit, but then we all parted ways as she and I had our last date. We ate dinner at Bazaar, another favorite, and then went to the rooftop bar of the fancy hotel that towers over the Plaza Santa Ana (something new!). Finally, we owned the dance floor at Sol Y Sombra one last time; needless to say, there was no competition for best dance moves… we had them all. Sarah and I parted in front of her house at 2 AM, but neither one of us slept through the night. She went to the airport soon after and I stayed up to finish shoving as much as I could into my suitcases and carry-on bags.

• I had so many despedidas throughout my final days, and it was special and moving to part with so many great people. From Elly to Patrick, from my kids and my co-workers, from Pastora to my best friend, the goodbyes were flowing more freely than the vino in a Spanish bar! Yet, more often than not, I found myself happy rather than sad when saying my farewells. Each person played a special role in my Madrid experience, and I would not be who I am today without them.

In Spain, people most commonly use “hasta luego” to say goodbye. “Until later” is the choice parting phrase that you use with best friends, acquaintances, and with strangers, like the cashier at the grocery store. And so, that is what I said to my friends in Madrid: hasta luego. See you later, Madrid. Yes, I will see you later.

Friday, June 25, 2010

No More School, No More Books...

The Final Word from Fernando and Belén
I had my last class with Fernando and Belén on Tuesday the 15th. I asked them to make a list of their favorite things that we have done together in English class over the past two years. They told me that they really enjoyed playing Bananagrams (a game similar to speed-scrabble but without a board) and Madlibs, being pen-pals with Anna Beth & Quinton (two of my good friends from Furman), reading The Secret Garden and making up endings to other stories we read, and listening to songs and filling in the missing lyrics. We had a good run, the three of us, and goodness gracious…I’m going to miss those two! Fortunately, I know I will see them again, because their parents are quite serious about sending them to stay with me and Justin in Orlando for a summer! (Justin, you don’t mind, right?) Their family also gave me a parting gift, Gaudi-inspired tea cups, to say “thank you and happy wedding.” I am so lucky to have had this class, because I will forever see Fer y Belén as my little cousins whom I will always adore.
So You Think You Can Bake!
For my last week of class with Andrea and Andrea on Thursday the 17th, we came up with a script for a mini-movie, which evolved into a wedding cake competition, reality-TV style. I took on the persona of Cat Deely (the tall, blonde, British hostess of SYTYCDance) and got to play the part of presenter. The Andreas formed Team Sugar and they competed against teams consisting of an assortment of stuffed animals and plastic dolls. It was a lot of fun, and it was a great way to end the class because the girls have something to show off their great English abilities and their fashionable attire.

Say “Bye bye!”
I got my last sloppy kisses from Ana, Lucia, and Paloma as I was leaving their third floor apartment on Thursday the 17th. Although I made sure to tell them (in Spanish) that I wasn’t coming back to give them classes, I think they still didn’t quite get the gravity of our parting.
Likewise, the twins, Marcos and Aitor, didn’t really grasp the reality of our last moments together this past Monday afternoon. I spent two hours with them and their mom, Marisa. We got some ice cream and went to the park near their house. Between playing freeze dance after slurping up the melting goodness and chasing Marcos & a dozen of his classmates in the park, I chatted with Marisa in Spanglish. It was a grand afternoon and I can’t wait to see my dear ones again soon.

Marisa and Javier took me out to dinner on Tuesday night. We had an excellent meal: pulpo a la Gallega, alcachofas a la plancha, razor clams (for Javi), and grilled vegetable-monkfish skewers. When we said our goodbyes, Marisa started to tear up… and she is the first person to have made me shed a few tears, too! Yet, mine were tears of joy and gratitude for this family. They have been a family upon whom I have relied mucho, and I can’t praise their wonderfulness enough. I am positive I will see them again in the near future.



¡Se acabó el cole!
Wednesday, the 23rd of June, was the last day of school for the kids and for me! I refuse to hold back my excitement. I am leaving Ciudad de Roma loaded down with drawings, notes, and hugs from my students. I am leaving content with what I have accomplished in my classes and with what I haven’t. I am leaving thankful for this wonderfully enriching experience, for the good and the bad parts of it. I am leaving a little sad when thinking of not seeing first hand my kids grow and learn in the coming years. But I am leaving hopeful, hoping that these kids will rise in the ranks of English speakers in the European community.
My last day at school was actually quite enjoyable. I got the chance to say goodbye to everyone, students and teachers alike. I made a video with a group of 5th graders, interviewing them about their favorite parts of the year. I took loads of pictures of my kiddos and colleagues, too. After classes ended, we had an End-of-the-Year teacher luncheon, which turned out to be another smorgasbord of traditional Spanish cuisine like fried calamares, jamón serrano y queso curado, empanadas, and other tapas foods. Afterward, I went out for a coffee with Pilar, Cristina, Victor, Concha, Joaquín, where we lounged in the cool shade of the outdoor patio and talked of school and of summer plans. Before I knew it, it was past 5:00. My, how those Spaniards know how to take their time eating and drinking…one of the many things I am going to miss.

Actually…I will miss many things about Spain. Me queda poco. I don’t have much time left: 4 days to be exact. It’s going to be a sprint to the finish line, and so far, so good!

Friday, June 18, 2010

Ode to Elaine

Elaine has only been gone for two weeks, but her absence is definitely noticeable. She’s quite a vociferous young woman, vibrant and goofy, and things were always more interesting and outings were always more fun when she was around. In honor of my former flatmate and missing friend, I’ve decided to share some of my favorite phrases or words that she’d use because she’s Scottish or because she’s just Elaine.

  • He thought I was chatting him up when really I was just trying to be nice!

Translation: He thought I was flirting with him.


  • I’m so glad you’re home, because I’ve just been faffing about all afternoon.

Translation: I’ve been wasting time all afternoon, and now that you’re here we can do something!


  • I don’t feel like going to my sister’s place this weekend, because it always ends up that everyone starts slagging me off.

Translation: Everyone makes fun of me and always gives me crap when I go to my sister’s house.

(In parts of Britain, when you say that someone is taking the piss or taking the Mickey, that also means that someone is being made fun of and the butt of every joke.)


  • We had a good time at lunch and some hilarious banter.

Translation: We had good conversations at lunch today.


  • His speech was full of the most ridiculous blether. She blathered on for hours about absolutely nothing!

Translation: He talked a load of nonsense. She blabbed on and on.

(Also, witter and haver can be used in these cases.)


  • I’m nackered after such a long day.

Translation: I’m exhausted.


  • I had a wee squiz at the book before the exam. I didn’t revise the material as I should’ve done.

Translation: I glanced at the book before the exam since I didn’t study.


  • Your house is full of bits and bobs. Get your bits and bobs together.

Translation: You’ve got a lot of stuff in your house. Get your things together.


  • Those eggs might be a bit manky.

Translation: I think those eggs have gone bad.


  • I’m feeling a bit peckish.

Translation: I’m a little bit hungry.


  • Oh, I love sherbert! On second thought, I prefer biscuits.

Translation: Oh, I love fun dip, but I like cookies even more.


  • I just can’t be bothered.

Translation: I’m just too lazy to worry about it.


  • Have you got a plaster?

Translation: Do you have band-aid?


  • We went to the back of beyond yesterday, and I have no idea where we were!

Translation: We were in the middle of nowhere yesterday.



Elaine, I loved having your as roommate these past several months. Thanks for all the great banter and good times. Missing you already, H


Showered

The strange weather continues here in the plains of Spain. We’ve had an almost unbelievable amount of rain, clouds, and cold temperatures. On one hand, I’m quite grateful for the cool weather, because I can fall asleep at night without lying in a pool of my own sweat as in June of 2009. On the other hand, I’ve missed wearing sundresses and flowy skirts. Wearing leggings, jackets, and boots keeps me so covered up that I have been robbed of a good tan this spring. Yet, I know I’ll get that chance sooner rather than later when I return to the searing heat of the southern USA… so I’ll enjoy the coolness while it lasts!

This past Saturday (the 12th of June), I was supposed to play in a volleyball tournament in Vallecas, a suburb of Madrid, with a few of my former teammates and a handful of new girls. From Las Otras, only Ana Kung Fu, Ana Belén, Maida and I were representing, and despite a damp morning in Madrid Central, we still met at the sports complex at 3:00. The tournament was still on since the courts seemed untouched by precipitation, so we stretched out and warmed up. Eventually, we found out that they were running two games behind, and so we relocated to sit on the upstairs patio of the cafeteria to wait. As we did, I watched an ominous looking cloud move towards us, and soon enough, the bottom just dropped out. Needless to say, after 30 minutes of unusually heavy rain, the tournament was canceled and we all went home. What a shame!

Luckily, Saturday wasn’t the only time I’ve spent with my volleyball teammates in the past week. On Friday night, I joined María, Sonia, Ana Belén, Ana de Lama, and Ana Kung Fu for a farewell dinner at El Recuerdo. El Recuerdo, a posh but reasonably priced establishment, just so happened to be right next door to Mosaic, the language institute where I took Spanish classes on Friday evenings this past fall. It’s funny because I remember thinking, “Wow: that seems like a great place to take the parents or to go out on a date!My, my, my... how things come full circle. Our “team date” was really special and loads of fun. What’s more is that the girls surprised me with more gifts: a tapas cookbook and a flamenco CD, two great mementos of Spain to carry with me back to the USA. And as if sharing a great meal with some great girls wasn’t enough, we continued to hang out for a bit and eventually—after much wandering—found ourselves in an almost empty discoteca, La Catedral. There we took loads of silly pictures and I made them all laugh with some silly dance moves of mine. Finally, once others started to arrive, we took that as our cue to mosey on and catch the metro back home. It was a great night out with some Spanish women whom I’ve really enjoyed getting to know this past year. I am very thankful to have had a volleyball team this past year, not only because it has allowed me to play the sport I love so much, but also because I had the chance to make some good friends along the way.

In addition to my volleyball team, there are a few other important Spanish women in my Madrid life. María, Nuria, and Cristina are three mothers of my 4th grade students I tutored this year, and I know them fairly well now. So, when they wanted to go out for a drink and some tapas on Monday (the 14th), I looked forward to the opportunity to spend more time with them without kids running around. We met at María’s house (where I spent 2 hours at her dining room table practically every Monday this year giving classes to Kike, Omar, Javier and Alex), and then we strolled down the street towards the place María had in mind. When we arrived at La Taberna de Buendi, I looked to my left and saw several familiar faces: Victor, Cristina, Pilar, Neme, Sharon, and SK! The moms had organized a surprise engagement-goodbye party for me! I was thrilled and just overwhelmed with emotion by the surprise. Later, another teacher, Concha, and Susana, my Spanish friend who went to Sevilla with us, also came.

Above: Cristina (Andrea M's mom), Neme (the religion teacher), me, Nuria (Andrea R's mom), and Maria (Kike & Javier's mom)
Below: Susana and SK
Once everyone was there, María handed me a very large and heavy box, wrapped in hot pink tissue paper. I opened it and inside there were numerous things also colorfully wrapped. One by one, I unwrapped each item: yarn and sewing needles (“for when married life gets too boring”), a rolling pin (“for multiple purposes”), a makeup bag with rollers and a shower cap (“for my looks”), a pink thong (“for the younger years”) pink granny panties (“for the later years”), an apron with a sexy flamenco dancer’s body printed on it and a tapas cookbook (“for remembering some of the best of Spain”). I’m pretty sure I was blushing throughout the whole time of opening these gag gifts. But their generosity didn’t stop there. Next, María passed me another box, this one more nicely wrapped. When I peeled away the tissue paper lining, I was awed to find a gorgeous, blue-grey Spanish manta, or shawl, folded neatly in the box. I pulled it out and discovered how massive it is, but its craftsmanship and quality were also noticeable. Everyone was telling me that I have to wear this on my wedding day, at least for a few pictures, in order to complete the Spanish theme that my wedding seems to be taking on.

I can’t properly describe how grateful I still am for such a special night in my honor. I was touched by this gathering of wonderful people, and I enjoyed my first engagement party! As an expression of my sincerest thanks, I gave everyone un abrazo americano, an American-style bear hug, which took almost everyone by surprise. Our dinner, by the way, was fabulous, too. We shared 4 different salads and everyone ordered a canapé, two pieces of bread loaded with things like salmon, shrimp, goat cheese, etc. We started eating at 10:00 and didn’t leave the restaurant until after midnight. Upon leaving, Pilar shouted, “We’re going out for drinks. Come on!” I wanted to go home but went along because I felt obligated to stay out if more people were. Pilar, Victor, Nuria, Sharon, and I stopped in a bar, but not long after we got there, Sharon and I decided to head home (it was after 1:00 AM). I told Victor I’d see him in class at 9:00 A.M.… and I did! Crazy Spaniards.
I’ve been blessed with some great relationships here in Madrid. Many times, we have no idea what kind of impact we have on other people. In all honesty, I have often wondered what good I’ve really done here in Madrid, if my kids have learned anything, if I’ve made any true life-long friends, if I’ve made a good influence on those I know. Over the past week, I have been showered with obvious and extravagant love by so many people. I guess that answers some of my wonderings.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

The Jet-Setting Finale: Amsterdam & Brussels

Last weekend, SK and I went on our last weekend adventure outside of Spain in order to visit friends who live in Amsterdam (The Netherlands) and Brussels (Belgium). It was a mighty good weekend, and I was pleasantly surprised by both cities. I’ve got the highlight reel ready to illuminate my favorite memories from my last European weekend trip.

Amsterdam in the Spotlight

  • Sarah and I stayed with her college friends, Joelle and Eric, who have been living in Amsterdam for a year already. Joelle met us at the airport with a smile and some hugs, and she took us to their chic and modern third-floor apartment loft. They were great hosts, and they showed us the city in two gloriously beautiful days.

  • Amsterdam is beautiful. Some have called it “The Venice of the North,” because the city center is surrounded by canals that fan out in concentric circles. I’ll admit that I’m not a big fan of Venice, and I can hands down say that visiting Amsterdam was much more enjoyable for me. Last weekend, I fell in love with Dutch Renaissance architecture, characterized by the narrow brick town-houses topped with a decorative “trapgevel” or Dutch gable. As Eric’s friend and co-worker Andrew said, "Amsterdam is just a glorified town,” where the neighborhood shops, bars, and restaurants are about as quaint and as homey as can be, and where a strange feeling of collectivism exists among the large international community.

  • It seems like there are more bicycles than people in Amsterdam, which isn’t too far from the truth (there are an estimated 470,000 bikes, which is more than half the population). They were everywhere—packed close around on bike racks, tied up to metal gates and fences, filling plazas and lining building walls. Bikes serve as the most popular form of transportation in the city, and you’ve got to have your wits about you while walking or riding around. Otherwise, you might get flattened by someone whizzing by if you stop to admire the architecture for too long. If you decide to ride a bike yourself, staying confident and alert are the keys to an injury-averted voyage.
    • SK & I hopped on bikes and went on a thrilling adventure as we navigated through the city streets, followed curving canals, rose over arched bridges, and dodged people and vehicles. On Friday, Joelle led us around the center, which was a difficult for beginners; Sarah wore a worried look on her face through most of that trip. On Saturday, Eric took us outside of the city to a large park where the 1928 Olympic Crew events were held. Sarah was able to relax more on that ride. Personally, I enjoyed the thrill of weaving in and out of traffic and pedestrians, but the lush, green scenery in the park was a nice change.

  • I was so charmed by Amsterdam, by its beauty, by its quirkiness, by its people (Dutch people are beautiful and practically speak fluent English), and by its secrets. Sadly, what is not a secret about Amsterdam and what has made it infamous is that one sector of town that almost everyone has some idea or another about: The Red Light District. And seeing as how it might be awhile before we return to Amsterdam, Sarah & I were curious just enough to merit a visit to the RLD. And so, we followed (on foot) Eric, Joelle, and Andrew to that part of town… and soon enough, I saw the neon lights that signaled legal prostitution. Then, I received a jolting shock when I actually saw them: the scantily-clad women standing behind 4-foot windows, attempting to seduce passersby to “make a purchase.” I was surprised (and frankly appalled) by the numerous images, toys, and trinkets displayed in the dozens of sex-shops that I could not avoid seeing, and I was disgusted by the thought of people going to “Sex Shows.” I was so distressed by the entire scene that I was on the verge of tears and hyperventilating.
    • Amsterdam is also famous for the vast amount of marijuana that is sold and used here. Cannabis plants and seeds are abundant, and the sickly sweet smell of pot wafts out of “coffee shops,” which sell the psychedelic herb in multiple forms. Holding true to a previously-made promise, SK & I paid 5 Euro for a Space Cake. We split the vanilla muffin with a distinctly herbal flavor… and thankfully I didn’t feel a thing afterward. So, yes, Mom and Dad, I’ve now tried pot (well, in one sense, at least).
    • A Note on the RLD: I understand that some cases can be made for legalizing prostitution and marijuana. Since my blog is not a forum for discussing controversial issues, I wish to neither condemn nor defend either. I merely recount my experience in the RLD, and although my actions and reactions may indicate one stance or another, I ask that the reader does not hold that against me.

  • There is a whole lot more to Amsterdam’s cuisine than Space Cakes. Since it’s such an international city and since The Netherlands has been influenced by their world exploration over the centuries, restaurant menus have a hodgepodge selection… and I loved it! From veggie-filled sandwiches to Vietnamese eggrolls, I delighted in it all. We did try some traditional Dutch treats, such as the stroopwafel (hot, gooey caramel sandwiched between 2 thin waffle-biscuits).
    • We also enjoyed great beer in Amsterdam. On Friday afternoon, we went to a local brewery called Brouwerij Het Ij, one the oldest breweries in the city and uniquely located under a windmill. They brew seven beers regularly, and I liked the Ij Wit (“7% a delicately hopped wheat beer that is dangerously drinkable”) the best. We took a tour of the micro-brewery and then sat outside in the warm sunshine for a couple of hours.


  • The Rijksmuseum houses the best collection of Dutch art in the world. Since it’s currently under renovation and less than half of the museum is open to visitors, only the best and most important pieces are on display, which actually made for a really nice & concise tour. My favorites were all the Rembrandt pieces (including The Nightwatch), Vermeer’s works, and the giant model of a 16th-century Dutch ship. While walking through the museum, it dawned upon me that I was witnessing the modern version of a nation that helped shape the fate of Europe and the world.

  • What else can I say? Amsterdam rocks!


The Beef on Brussels

  • Sarah and I took an early morning train to Brussels, and we met my friend Julie at the train station. Julie is an American who worked at my school in Madrid last year, and she married Paco, a madrileño himself, last summer. During the course of their engagement, Paco got a job promotion to work in Brussels, and the couple moved after their July wedding. Julie and Paco live in a nice flat in central Brussels, and Julie’s Chihuahua, Lucky, greeted us with loads of barking and pant-leg-biting when we arrived. (I consider him lucky for the fact that I didn’t punt his oversized frame out the window! He was seriously the most annoying dog I have ever met.) We only had one night with J&P in Brussels, but they were great hosts, too. Paco was a superb tour guide and the four of us walked the entire city from noon to eight on Sunday, despite a few rain showers throughout the day.


  • Brussels is a mish-mash of old European charm and an eclectic, funky style. Parts of the city reveal its former elegance, seen best from standing in the middle of the Grand Place, one of the most beautiful and impressive squares that I’ve ever seen. On the other hand, there is a grittiness to the city that seems a bit harsh, and sometimes a bit warn down, when observing only the exterior. Yet, once you delve a little deeper into the fray, you find all sorts of delights that are tucked away here and there. As a result, I found Brussels quite interesting.
  • Belgium is famous for a few things that I liked a lot.
    • Belgian beer—Did you know that beer can be delicious? I was reminded of that and have become a fan of the Belgians Leffe and Kriek.

    • Belgian chocolate—Only the best for the refined palette. We indulged our taste buds with an edible piece of art and treated our hosts to another.

    • Belgian waffles—When loaded with strawberries, whipped cream, chocolate sauce and powdered sugar, they’re almost too rich to finish. Almost.

    • Frites—The Belgians love their French fries, and I enjoyed snacking on some frites with curry ketchup while listening to an outdoor concert next to the Royal Palace.


  • Brussels has got a number of reasons for being famous and a few other things that I just found interesting.
    • The capital of the EU and NATO Headquarters—As we walked through the European Community, through the tall, modern business-like buildings, I couldn’t help but think, “What happened to the Euro?! I really hope you guys can change the EU economy pronto… I’d really appreciate that in a few weeks!”

    • The Manneken Pis—The famous peeing-boy statue has become an icon of the city over the years. He’s dressed in a different outfit everyday and has some 400 different ones to wear. I don’t really know more than that.

    • Tin TinBrussels is the home of comics and Tin Tin can be found chasing bad guys all over the city. We didn’t make it to the Comics Museum, but I’m sure it would have been enlightening.

    • We strolled through some parks, including the Cinquantenaire Park, where a family-friendly festival of some sort was going on Sunday afternoon.

    • Because it sits in between the linguistically different regions of Belgium, there is a mix of Dutch and French spoken throughout Brussels. My ears really enjoyed listening to French music playing in the restaurants, and I loved getting a chance to practice my “merci” and “s’il vous plait.”


  • Sarah and I had a couple of hours Monday morning to revisit central Brussels before we met Paco, who escorted us to the right bus we needed to take to get to the Charleroi Airport. In the end, it was a harrowing day of travel that took much longer than expected due to a busy airport and numerous delays. I couldn’t help but think, “Wow, this is my last Easyjet/Ryanair trip for who knows how long.” And we when finally arrived in Madrid Barajas, I thought, “Whoa, the next time I’m in this airport (that I know oh-so-well) I’m going to have a little more luggage with me… and it’ll be the last time I walk these hallways for a long while.”

And so, with the clock ticking loudly somewhere just behind me, I find myself once again in Madrid, struck with the realization that I have hardly two weeks left here. Tick-tock. Tick-tock. Venga… let’s make the most of it!