The benefit of living in a country where government and religion do not function on separate playing fields is that some saint’s days are national holidays. The Day of the Immaculate Conception was celebrated on Monday, and consequently, schools were not in session. Given a four-day weekend (instead of the usual three-days…), I was more or less obliged to take this as an opportunity to travel. Plus, I hadn’t seen Edward in a while, and we were due a reunion.
SK, Shenning, and I took a 6 hour bus ride last Friday to San Sebastian, the pride of the País Vasco (The Basque Country). The Basque Country of Spain is along the northern coast and borders France. Here you can find the only living language spoken in all of Europe that is not Latin-based, and it has baffled linguists for centuries. Euskara is the Basque language that has been passed down through generations of a people who have resisted being conquered by all other groups. (In fact, there is still resistance today from ETA, the Basque separatist party that still actively protests for having a Basque nation apart from Spain or France.) Despite the underlying tension that does not go undetected or unheard in this part of Spain, the region maintains its reputation for the gorgeous countryside, the spectacular coast, the unique food, and the hardworking people who call País Vasco home.
San Sebastian is neatly nestled between the green, fertile mountains to the south and the craggy coastline bordering the cold, unpredictable waters of the Cantabrian Sea to the north. The city clings tightly to its expanse of sandy beaches, which serve as the main attraction throughout the summer months. The crescent-shaped Bahía de la Concha (Shell Bay) is guarded by three centurions: Monte Urgull, Monte Igueldo, and Isla de Santa Clara. The gushing Río Urumea divides the city, and the neighborhoods are connected by a series of charming bridges. In fact, the architecture is one of the most notable and most pleasing aspects of this town. While the narrow streets and old buildings of the Parte Vieja are fun to pass through, it’s the elegant adornments in the Art Nouveau style that create a true feast for the eyes while strolling through the broad avenues and passing by the dozens of high-end shops that perpetuate the idea that San Sebastian is a place of pleasure.
Speaking of feasts and pleasure, San Sebastian happens to also be the reported birthplace and leader of the culinary creation called the pinxto (Basque for pincho). The idea behind the perfect pinxto generally involves a slice of bread piled high with a colorful morsel from land or sea and the ability to consume the delicate treat in three, or at best four, dainty bites. Bars and restaurants attract hungry customers by filling the counters with a tantalizing variety of pinxto plates. If you desire to do the pinxto deal, the bartender hands you a clean plate, lets you grab as many pieces you want, and makes a pinxto-count before you find a seat or a spot to stand to begin passing through Pleasure’s front door.
San Sebastian’s sovereignty over this distinctly Spanish form of consumption makes it a must-see for Edward Crouse’s culinary exploration of Spain. Once again, I successfully met up with Edward outside of Madrid. As the two Sarah’s and I were checking in at the front desk at our hostel, Olga’s Place, I heard a familiar voice coming from the common room. “Edward!” I shouted. Slow, knowing laughter responded, which was then followed by a “What up, girl?” Yes, Edward had made it safe and sound to San Sebas. I hadn’t seen him in almost two weeks, and I was glad to hear that he made it through his solitary travels just fine.
During our stay in San Sebastian, it rained Friday night and all day Saturday, and consequently we didn’t push ourselves too much. In the winter, there aren’t too many attractions, and simply walking along the boardwalks (well, maybe they should be called stonewalks) to watch the people go by or the waves crash on the beach provides enough entertainment. Sunny Sunday got us out of bed with a purpose. We took a 15 minute bus ride inland to visit the Museo de Chillida Leku, a museum where Eduardo Chillida’s huge iron and granite sculptures stand tall in a grassy field. When we came back to town, we hiked up Monte Urgull and had the most amazing views of the city, the countryside, and the sea from the top of a castle and at the base of Jesus’ feet (a large statue of Jesus was placed as the crowning glory of the castle). We balanced our bellies and our bank accounts by cooking some meals at the hostel and by sharing pinxtos on nights out. I'd say we got a good taste of what San Sebas has to offer, although Edward and I never did get around to surfing.
San Sebastian is unlike any other Spanish city that I have yet visited. I’ve heard that perhaps the best resemblance to its appearance, culture, atmosphere and lifestyle can be found in Barcelona. Lucky for me, I’m making my way there and meeting Edward again next week in Barce!
No comments:
Post a Comment