The Semana Santa Saga: Part II

Where: Prague, Czech Republic

When: Wednesday, March 24 (4:00 PM) – Saturday, March 27 (6:00 AM)

Who: SK & Yours Truly

How: 5 AM night bus to Madrid airport → flight from Madrid to Barcelona and from Barcelona to Prague (thank you, Vueling) → bus followed by metro to city center → 15 minute walk to hostel → Total travel time: 11 hours

Where we stayed: Hostel Týn. Our hostel was conveniently located just a stone’s throw from Prague’s Old Town Square, the Staroměstské náměstí, and just behind the magical castle-like Cathedral Týn. We had a private room with two of the most comfortable twin beds I’ve ever slept in, and we enjoyed our view of the small courtyard from three floors above.

What Wikipedia says about Prague: Situated on the Vltava River in central Bohemia, Prague has been the political, cultural and economic centre of the Czech state for more than 1100 years. For many decades during the Gothic and Renaissance eras, Prague was the permanent seat of two Holy Roman Emperors and thus was also the capital of the Holy Roman Empire.

What I say about Prague:
Neon yellow, orange, and green streamers flapped from tree branches and food stalls. Invisible clouds of sweet and savory smells wafted by in pungent waves, making mouths crave their delectable sources. Simultaneously, the eyes feasted on the colorful displays of trinkets and artwork that were overflowing from the crowded wooden counters. A stage placed in the center of this urban circus hosted a number of men, women and children who sang, danced, and acted out special performances from their particular region. Of course, they modeled the not-so-latest fashion from their town as they recounted in song and verse the story of the Czech people. A fairy-tale cathedral rose up in delicate form just behind the stage. On the corner of the square stood the famous Astronomical Clock Tower, whose ancient mechanical figures jerked unnaturally from side to side to mark each hour. This was how SK and I were welcomed to Prague.

It didn’t take long for SK & I to become enamored by the dreamlike elegance of Prague. The old city center was a maze of winding streets where shops and cafes enticed tourists inside with the promise of uncovering some secret. Dark spirals of churches and other stately buildings thrust through the red rooftops, piercing the skyline like needles emerging from a tapestry. The famous Charles Bridge, crowned with dozens of large statues, reached across the rapidly flowing Vltava River in a grand gesture of unification between the two sides of the city. By a stroke of luck, SK & I caught a troupe of cello players serenading passersby with their captivating melodies. They held our attention for well over half an hour and served as the perfect representation of how one can totally feel in harmony with the world while in Prague (which is a good thing, since it seemed like the entire world was there in the form of massive tour groups).

What we visited:

• The Prague Castle: One of the largest castles in the world required several hours of exploration. With parts dating as far back as the 9^th century and as recent as the 20^th century, the castle grounds were really interesting to see, especially with the information provided by my free audio guide. The St. Vitus Cathedral was massively impressive, and in contrast, the palace rooms were a bit lacking. Yet, I really enjoyed standing by the exact window that launched the Thirty Years’ War in 1618. (The Bohemian Revolution was initiated after the Second Defenestration of Prague, where some dudes got thrown out a window. Apparently, throwing people out of windows as a symbol of disagreement and protest was a common method of conflict… resolution?) There were quite a number of buildings on the grounds, but the cutest area was Golden Street, a narrow street with brightly colored miniature houses built on the castle ramparts. Additionally, the small vineyard on the hillside provided us with spectacular views of the city.

• The Alfons Mucha Museum: Mucha was a leading artist of the Art Nouveau movement at the turn of the 20^th century, known for his distinct geometrical & naturalistic style and his inclusion of alluring beauties in most of his prints and paintings. I really like Mucha’s work and I enjoyed learning about the life of this great Czech artist who believed in his people and his country and sought to bring change through his art. He’s definitely a favorite of mine!

• The Spanish Synagogue: Yep… that’s right. We went to the Spanish Synagogue, acclaimed as the most elaborate synagogue in the world. Built in 1868, the interior was decorated in the Moorish style, which meant no surface was left untouched and every visible spot was embellished with intricate Islamic-style patterns. After getting dizzy from staring at too many zigzags for too long, we walked through the rest of the Jewish Quarter of Prague, passing through streets with much history… and loads of tourists. They just couldn’t be escaped!

What we ate:

Everything we ate and drank in Prague was never less than tasty. In the Easter Market, we enjoyed snacking on grilled meat sandwiches and sharing a beer while watching what was happening on the stage. In finer establishments, we dined on Czech dumplings filled with meat, slurped up goulash soup, and sipped on Moravian wine. I even tried ice-cream beer, an unusual concoction at a local brewery (perhaps I should have just stuck with a local brewsky…). And, even though it’s not typical of the region, we had a great Italian pizza on our last night in Prague. I’m not ashamed to admit it either, because everyone in the world loves Italian food and this pizza was really good! Plus, traditional Czech meals are fairly similar to what Germans and Austrians prepare, and I still had another week to go to get a taste of this part of Western Europe.