Monday, May 11, 2009

A Change of Pace

Before I even moved to Spain last September, I knew that each region of the country was particular and distinct. Throughout my fall, winter, and early spring travels, I experienced that text book and word-of-mouth knowledge for myself as I explored the regions of Andalucía, Castilla y León, Castilla-La Mancha, the Basque Country, the Balearic Islands and Catalonia. Each place I visited in each region offered something different, as my past accounts have illustrated. This past weekend, I once again discovered the amazing beauty and diversity of Spain when I went to the most northwestern province in the country—Galicia.


It was hard to believe that I was in Spain at all this weekend. Galicia is fertile, green, lush, humid, wet, and everything that is not central Spain. The landscape, the cool weather, and the musical trills of the bagpipe gave the impression that I might as well be in Great Britain! SK, Yadira, Kate and I flew to Santiago de Compostela on Friday morning. Santiago de Compostela has one of the most interesting histories of all Spanish towns. Supposedly, it is the final resting place of St. James the Apostle, whose body was transported in a stone boat to northwestern Spain and then entombed some miles inland. That was around 44 A.D. Then, around 813 A.D., a star-guided hermit rediscovered the long-forgotten grave. Once the word was out, and cathedral and altar were erected, and Santiago de Compostela became one of the most famous pilgrimage sites in the modern world.
Fortunately for us and our weekend priorities, there isn’t a whole lot to do in SdC. It’s a small, quaint town, where the locals are friendly and the visitors are aplenty. Throughout the weekend, the girls and I enjoyed simply wandering through the old streets at a leisurely pace. We intentionally slowed our steps to a new rhythm, one that matched the haunting melodies of the bagpipers playing near the cathedral or the sweet symphonies played by a 4-string quartet. Each of us have been on the go for so long that we mutually decided to relax and unwind... and Galicia was the perfect setting for this mindset.
It was a perfectly relaxing and pleasant weekend, made even better by the discovery of how delicious and cheap Galician food is. I was happy to find out that Galicia honors the tapas tradition and ecstatic to see that they perhaps to it better than anywhere else in Spain. With one drink, we would be served either a bowl of seafood-stew or a plate of meats, cheese, & bread, or a tray of assorted Galician specialties. Needless to say, we were all happy campers. In addition to the great food, the unbeatable price, the lovely atmosphere, whenever we walked down "Sample Street" (as I like to call it), we were enticed to enter several speciality Galician produce shops, where we tried all the special foods of the region: tarta de Santiago, caprichos de Santiago, queso tetilla, chocolate bits and after-dinner drinks. Amazing.
On Saturday, we took a short day-trip to A Coruña, the most important port city in the region that sits on the northern shore. The coast was breathtakingly beautiful: raw, natural, refreshing and unaffected by the presence of man. The ocean waves crashed relentlessly upon the giant boulders that formed the frontline in the battle against sea and land. Various types of wildflowers colored the grassy meadow, protected from the powerful swells and nourished by the rising moisture.

On the other side of A Coruña sits a charming harbor, where passersby stroll between the bright formation of boats and the particularly glassy architectural skyline. As a port city, A Coruña has a more laid back feel than most. I only wish I had had more time there!

In Galicia, Spanish shares Official Language status with Gallego, which sounds like a blend of Portuguese and Castilian (or Spanish-Spanish). The Galician people were so nice, and we didn’t encounter any rudeness or bluntness that we come across far too often in other parts of the country (and especially in Madrid). On Sunday, SK, Yadira, and I went to the Museum of the Galician People, and it was fascinating to see their history as a people. They are a people who have a Celtic heritage, have lived predominantly off the sea, and who have preserved many of their precious traditions throughout the centuries. Fascinating and enchanting.

Whether you believe that St. James currently resides in the ancient cathedral crypt or not, you can not deny the beauty of the Camino—the pilgrimage—that hundreds of people from all over the world trek across daily. Although a bit worn and weary, they march into town triumphantly carrying their packs until they reach the main plaza in front of the cathedral. Some fall down on their faces in relief. Some cheer and yell in excitement. Others cry tears of joy and gratitude. Any place that has such an effect on other people will certainly leave you feeling a little different, too.

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